2010 Honda Pilot Fuse Box Diagram
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I'm not sure where exactly to post this, so if it needs to be moved, please do so.
I want to add a circuit to my fuse box, to hard wire my Uniden R7 Radar Detector. It's suggested to use the stereo fuse to add the circuit to. I think there is another fuse box in the engine that houses the stereo, but I didn't look yet. My question is: is there a list of the fuses somewhere that has the numbers and what they are? I see they are on the side of the box itself, but was wondering if there is a reference to them all.
Also, what is the Fuse "Option" #28?
Thanks!
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Here is a list for you, @Homeuser, assuming you have a G2 Ridgeline. #28 is as listed "option." Someone more well versed in electronics can chime in on what you can put there.
Honda Ridgeline (from 2017) - fuse box diagram - Auto Genius
Honda Ridgeline (from 2017) – fuse box diagram Year of production: 2017 Engine compartment fuse box type A Number Circuit protected Ampere rating [A] 1 — 70*1 AC INVERTER 70*2 RR BLOWER 30*1 — 30*2 VSA MTR 40 VSA FSR 20 MAIN FAN 30*1 — 30*2 MAIN FUSE 150 2 SUB FAN 30 WIP MTR …
www.autogenius.info
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is there a list of the fuses somewhere that has the numbers and what they are?
There's a list of fuses for each of the 3* RL fuse boxes in the Owner's Manual you can download from the Honda Owner website.
* - two under the hood, one in the cabin
No, there's no further explanation for #28 Option 10A in that Manual.
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Pages 591 - 595 of the owners manual has fuse info.
I'm assuming you'll be adding some TAP adapters like these:
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yeah, I don't know if I have a G2. I have a 2019 Honda Ridgeline RTL-E. Thanks for the info. I couldn't find anything when I looked. I'll look at those pages.
I'm only going to be adding a 2A fuse. I did get the add a circuit fuse from Amazon. Just want to make sure I tap into the right thing.
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Yeah, I don't know if I have a G2. I have a 2019 Honda Ridgeline RTL-E. Thanks for the info. I couldn't find anything when I looked. I'll look at those pages.
I'm only going to be adding a 2A fuse. I did get the add a circuit fuse from Amazon. Just want to make sure I tap into the right thing.
You have a GenII Ridgeline.
I have just added two 10amp circuits to my GenI for aftermarket seat heaters. I used two fuse taps that I bought from Amazon. I assume that is what you are using as well?
To install you don't really need to pick a particular item like the stereo but rather you need to pick a circuit that has a greater amp rating than the one you are installing and you need to make sure that it is switched on and off with the ignition. In your case the stereo circuit should be a good call but there are certainly other options.
Another thing that you need to make sure is that you plug in the fuse tap in the correct way. If you put it in the wrong way then the fuse is not protecting the circuits. In the fuse panel, one of the two sockets for each fuse is the 12v supply and the other goes to the circuit being powered. You need to orient your tap so that 12v supply is on the correct side.
I used my multimeter to test for the 12v supply and to make sure that the circuit was only on with the ignition switch.
Is this the type of add a circuit tap you got?
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
You have a GenII Ridgeline.
I have just added two 10amp circuits to my GenI for aftermarket seat heaters. I used two fuse taps that I bought from Amazon. I assume that is what you are using as well?
To install you don't really need to pick a particular item like the stereo but rather you need to pick a circuit that has a greater amp rating than the one you are installing and you need to make sure that it is switched on and off with the ignition. In your case the stereo circuit should be a good call but there are certainly other options.
Another thing that you need to make sure is that you plug in the fuse tap in the correct way. If you put it in the wrong way then the fuse is not protecting the circuits. In the fuse panel, one of the two sockets for each fuse is the 12v supply and the other goes to the circuit being powered. You need to orient your tap so that 12v supply is on the correct side.I used my multimeter to test for the 12v supply and to make sure that the circuit was only on with the ignition switch.
Is this the type of add a circuit tap you got?
Thanks for that info!
Yes that's exactly what I am doing. I watched a video explaining exactly what you just said. If I understand correctly, the line Feeding to my radar detector should get the 2a fuse and the other one should get the 10a or higher fuse?
I'll probably use the pass side seat heater too.
I got this one:
Electop 12V Car Add-a-circuit Fuse TAP Adapter Mini ATM APM Blade Fuse Holder 3 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079PSSCYF/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_gqxpEbDRTM91R
Is this fine? Or the one you got better (or same)
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What you bought is fine. The way you drew your picture is correct as far as where the fuses should go. In your p[icture, the prong of the tap that is farthest away from the red wire (closest to the black arrow you drew) is the prong that should go into the 12v feed socket in the fuse box. Test with a multimeter to see which fuse socket is the 12v feed in the fuse box.
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
What you bought is fine. The way you drew your picture is correct as far as where the fuses should go. In your p[icture, the prong of the tap that is farthest away from the red wire (closest to the black arrow you drew) is the prong that should go into the 12v feed socket in the fuse box. Test with a multimeter to see which fuse socket is the 12v feed in the fuse box.
Will do. Will install this next week. Parts coming today.
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Pages 591 - 595 of the owners manual has fuse info.
I'm assuming you'll be adding some TAP adapters like these:
The tap fuse link you gave is the same one I ordered from Amazon. After my install I find it doesn't work. I traced it down to a failed tap link.
I'd recommend you find another source. Look closely where the wire is attached to the fuse holder. The failed ones I have are round at the attachment point. There are some out there that are oval that appear better quality.
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
You have a GenII Ridgeline.
I have just added two 10amp circuits to my GenI for aftermarket seat heaters. I used two fuse taps that I bought from Amazon. I assume that is what you are using as well?
To install you don't really need to pick a particular item like the stereo but rather you need to pick a circuit that has a greater amp rating than the one you are installing and you need to make sure that it is switched on and off with the ignition. In your case the stereo circuit should be a good call but there are certainly other options.
Another thing that you need to make sure is that you plug in the fuse tap in the correct way. If you put it in the wrong way then the fuse is not protecting the circuits. In the fuse panel, one of the two sockets for each fuse is the 12v supply and the other goes to the circuit being powered. You need to orient your tap so that 12v supply is on the correct side.I used my multimeter to test for the 12v supply and to make sure that the circuit was only on with the ignition switch.
Is this the type of add a circuit tap you got?
Thanks. I did not get that type of tap. Instead I got this one:
Electop 12V Car Add-a-circuit Fuse TAP Adapter Mini ATM APM Blade Fuse Holder 3 Pack Amazon.com: Electop 12V Car Add-a-circuit Fuse TAP Adapter Mini ATM APM Blade Fuse Holder 3 Pack: Automotive
I don't know if this truck take a MICRO2, Mini, or a low profile mini. How do I figure that out?
What have others used?
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They are low profile mini fuses.
These are the taps I got:
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks! Your's was unavailable. But I found another one..
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Be sure to test them with an ohm meter before you cut & crimp. AMHIK.
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
So, I did it. I used the fuse & slot for the Right Rear Power Window 20A (#13). Running the wire was easy.
Thanks for all the help and advice!
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One thing to think about with the window circuits. . .
On my GenI I tested all my window fuses with the ignition on and off and they only had power with the ignition off. As a result I chose two of them for my seat heater install as they seemed like ideal options. . .
Apparently my testing wasn't thorough enough as after using the seat heat heaters I noticed that the heaters stay on even with the ignition switch off UNTIL I open the doors. This makes sense (once I thought about it) because my windows also operate in this manner which is to say they work while driving and immediately after turning off the truck until a door is open. You can also roll down the windows with the remote by pressing down and holding the unlock button so during that operation, I would expect my seat heaters to come on momentarily if left on.
I haven't yet decided if I'm going to reconfigure where my taps plug in or not. I don't think its likely to result in an a drained battery. However the power must be going through a contol system / relay I don't know for sure that the relay can handle the seat heater load in addition to all the windows if and when everything was used.
Homeuser, I seriously doubt your extra 2amp circuit load will create a problem (assuming your GenII even behaves the same way as my GenI) but it's not so clear about my 2 additional 10-amp circuits for the seat heaters.
Have Fun!
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
One thing to think about with the window circuits. . .
On my GenI I tested all my window fuses with the ignition on and off and they only had power with the ignition off. As a result I chose two of them for my seat heater install as they seemed like ideal options. . .
However after using the seat heat heaters I noticed that the heaters stay on even with the ignition switch off UNTIL I open the doors. This makes sense (once I thought about it) because my windows also operate in this manner which is to say they work while driving and immediately after turning off the truck until a door is open. You can also roll down the windows with the remote by pressing down and holding the unlock button so during that operation, I would expect my seat heaters to come on momentarily if left on.
I haven't yet decided if I'm going to reconfigure where my taps plug in or not. I don't think its likely to result in an a drained battery. However the power must be going through a contol system / relay I don't know for sure that the relay can handle the seat heater load in addition to all the windows if and when everything was used.
Homeuser, I seriously doubt your extra 2amp circuit load will create a problem (assuming your GenII even behaves the same way as my GenI) but it's not so clear about my 2 additional 10-amp circuits for the seat heaters.
Have Fun!
Thanks eurban, yes, my truck does the same thing. That's what I wanted it to do.
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Posted by: marandamarandabuziake0272283.blogspot.com
Source: https://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/threads/adding-a-circuit-to-fuse-box.221297/
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